You picked up a racquet, a stringer asked “what tension?”, and you had no idea what to say. Or you have a number written on a receipt from last time and no idea whether it was a good one. String tension is one of the few settings on a racquet you can change cheaply, and it is also one of the most over-explained. This guide keeps it practical: what the number does, where to start, and how to change it without chasing your tail.
One caveat up front. Almost all advice on tension comes from stringers, retailers and manufacturers, not from controlled studies. The direction of the effects is widely agreed; the exact numbers are starting points, and your own arm and your own game have the last word.
What string tension actually is
Tension is how tightly the strings are pulled when the racquet is strung, measured in pounds (lbs) or kilograms (kg). A handy conversion: 1 kg is about 2.2 lbs, so 25 kg is roughly 55 lbs. The number you tell the stringer is the tension of the machine at the time of stringing, not what the racquet will hold a week later (more on that below).
Your frame tells you the range it was designed for. Look at the throat of the racquet or inside the frame near the head: a printed range such as “50-60 lbs” is the manufacturer’s recommended window. Staying inside it is the safest rule, partly because the frame is built to handle that load.
What lower and higher tension change
Think of the stringbed as a trampoline.
Lower tension
- More power for the same swing, because the strings stretch and spring back.
- A more comfortable, softer feel, and a larger sweet spot, according to Tennis Warehouse.
- The ball tends to leave on a higher trajectory, so it can fly long if you swing hard.
Higher tension
- More control: a firmer stringbed, a lower trajectory and a more predictable response.
- More of the work is yours. Tennis Warehouse puts it as putting more of the power burden on you rather than on the racquet or strings.
- A harsher feel on off-centre hits.
What about spin?
Be wary of anyone who gives you a clean rule. Tennis Warehouse notes that changing tension either way can raise or lower spin,, so there is no clean tension rule for topspin. What is more reliable is string type: stiff polyester that snaps back is the usual choice of players who swing fast and want spin.
Ball speed is mostly you
Pace comes mainly from your swing, not from tension, and a 2 lb change will not transform it. Think of tension as shaping feel and trajectory, not as a power button.
Where to start, by string type
The recommended start depends on what is inside the racquet, because stiff and soft strings behave differently at the same number.
Printed ranges differ from frame to frame, and published per-string-type charts differ from source to source, so this guide does not give a universal chart. The reliable part is relative: stiff strings (polyester, Kevlar) are strung a little looser than soft ones (natural gut, synthetic gut, multifilament). The rule below is Tennis Warehouse’s, checked October 2026.
The simple rule most stringers use
- Read the printed range on your frame.
- For synthetic gut, natural gut or multifilament, start in the middle.
- For polyester or Kevlar, start about 2 lbs below the middle (Tennis Warehouse). If you are on polyester and your arm is touchy, leaning lower is reasonable.
- In a hybrid with polyester and a softer string, Tennis Warehouse suggests about 5% lower on the polyester.
Example: a frame printed “50-60 lbs” has a middle of 55. With multifilament, start at 55. With full polyester, start at about 53 or a little lower.
How to adjust once you have a baseline
The biggest mistake is changing tension, string and racquet at the same time, then not knowing which one did what. A cleaner method:
- Play two or three sessions on the baseline. The first hit after stringing is not representative, because the strings have just lost their first chunk of tension.
- Change one thing, by a small step. Keep each step small, around 1-2 lbs (0.5-1 kg), so you can feel the difference.
- Go down if the ball feels hard and boardy, the arm feels the shocks, or you want depth without swinging out.
- Go up if the ball keeps sailing long and you feel you are hitting at the stringbed with no control.
- Write it down. String, gauge, tension, date, and a line about how it felt. A note in your phone beats memory every time.
Large jumps rarely pay off. Big jumps can cost you power and comfort quickly, and moving far outside the printed range is a frame risk.
Tension, string choice and your arm
Lower tension reduces stringbed stiffness, and that can soften shock and vibration. That is why guides tend to point arm-sensitive players toward lower-to-middle tensions and softer strings such as multifilament or natural gut.
But tension is a small lever. String choice, racquet weight, grip size and string age are parts of the same picture, since comfort fades as strings wear. If your grip is the wrong size, no tension will fix it, so our guide to tennis grip size is a better first stop. A proper warm-up routine matters as much as any string number.
If pain persists, it is a medical question. Tension is not a treatment.
Why strings go dead (and why tension drops)
Strings lose tension from the moment they are strung. Strings lose a share of their tension in the first day or so, and stiff strings such as polyester are commonly reported to lose it faster than natural gut or multifilament. Published percentages vary by source and string, so this guide does not quote one.
What that means in practice:
- The number on the receipt is a starting tension. After a day, you are playing on something lower.
- Polyester can feel fine for a few hours and then “go dead”: the ball sprays and the arm feels it. Many players restring poly more often than other strings.
- Most club players do not own a tension tester, so go by feel: a flat sound, sprayed balls or a harsher arm are the signs.
- There is no reliable “restring every X weeks” rule. Players who hit often and hit hard need fresher strings than occasional social players.
If you play a few times a month and notice the racquet feels flat, restring. If it still feels fine and nothing hurts, you are not obliged to restring on a calendar.
Common mistakes
- Copying a pro’s tension. Pros are all over the map; Tennis Warehouse notes some pros string as low as the mid-to-high 30s lbs while others go to 70+ lbs. Their swing speeds, their string and their stringers are not yours.
- Going outside the printed range to chase a feel. Try a different string first.
- Blaming tension for a technique problem. Shanks, nets and long balls usually start with footwork and contact point.
- Changing two things at once. New string and new tension together means you will not know which helped.
- Forgetting the stringer. Use a stringer you trust and go back to the same one, so your number means the same thing next time.
A quick starter plan for beginners and returning players
- Ask for multifilament or a soft synthetic string at the middle of your frame’s range.
- Play three or four sessions before judging it.
- If the ball flies long, add 1-2 lbs. If the arm or the sound feels harsh, subtract 1-2 lbs.
- Keep a note, and keep the number if you like how it plays.
- Leave polyester and clever hybrids until you hit often enough to need the durability and have a reason to.
Where tension fits in your tennis
String tension is worth a few minutes of thought, not a month. The thing that moves your tennis most is hours on court against people who push you. If you want those hours without hunting for a partner, Breakers Open Play runs level-matched, drop-in social tennis sessions: you book a seat for your level and show up. It is live in Bangkok only for now. For somewhere to play, the court directory lists clubs by city. If you are new to the game, our beginner’s guide to tennis covers the rest of the basics.
The short version
- Read the range printed on your frame and stay inside it.
- Start in the middle for soft strings; start about 2 lbs lower for polyester.
- Lower tension: more power and comfort. Higher tension: more control.
- Adjust by 1-2 lbs, one change at a time, and keep notes.
- Strings lose tension fast, especially polyester, so a “dead” feel is a reason to restring.
- Lasting arm pain is a medical issue, not a tension issue.
Sources
- Tennis Warehouse, “What tension do I string my tennis racquet at?”: https://www.tennis-warehouse.com/learning_center/gear_guides/tennis_string/what_tension_do_I_string_my_tennis_racquet_at.html
Frequently asked questions
What string tension should a beginner use?
Start in the middle of the range printed on your racquet frame. Lower-to-middle tensions are a sensible place for most newer players because the stringbed adds a little power and comfort while your own swing speed is still developing. Tension is personal, so treat the middle as a starting point and adjust from there.
Does higher string tension give more control?
Generally, yes. Higher tension makes the stringbed firmer, which tends to give a lower, more predictable ball flight, but it also asks you to produce more of the power yourself. Lower tension tends to add power and comfort. The effect is a tendency, not a guarantee, and string type matters too.
Should polyester strings be strung tighter or looser?
Looser than softer strings. Tennis Warehouse suggests starting polyester about 2 lbs below the middle of the printed range. Polyester is stiff, so a lower tension helps keep it comfortable.
Does string tension cause tennis elbow?
Tension alone does not decide it. A very stiff, tight stringbed can transmit more shock to the arm, but string type, racquet weight, grip size and how worn the strings are all matter too. If you have lasting arm pain, see a doctor or physio rather than trying to fix it with tension.
How often should I restring my racquet?
There is no single rule. Strings lose tension even if you do not play, and polyester is commonly reported to lose its feel faster than multifilament or natural gut. Restring when the racquet feels dead, the ball sprays or your arm feels worse, and sooner if you play often.
